July 8: Reims

Route: Mailly-Champagne -> Reims -> Prouilly

(this is the second time I'm making this entry. On the finishing line the blog lost my draft and I needed to start all over again...)

Part 1: battle around Reims

Reims - the capital of kings and crowns. And the home for one stubborn, loyal homie. When war broke, Jean-Baptiste Langlet was already 75 years old. He began his second term as a mayor of Reims. And still, he was the "one man army" without actually going to the front. Throught the short German occupation (September 4 - September 12, 1914), Langlet kept his cold blood and dealt with  everything what war brought (e.g. refugees, the wounded, food supply). It might be that he had a big impact on only a fraction (1 500) of the inhabitants (115 000 in 1914) leaving during the final German offensive in 1918. It was Langlet who, after the war, initiated first reconstruction projects. For all of his work, the city named one of the main arteries after him while Langlet was still alive - a rare occasion.
Although German occupation was short, they did not go far. The Germans entrenched themselves on the surrounding hills and had a very good shot on the town, which they did not let to waste.

Reims - the home of the landmark of French gothic, history and culture. However, as numerous architectural masterpieces already now, history or the pure fact of being "the one and only" does not save form the danger of being destroyed when conflicts emerge. About 80% of Reims was destroyed during this war and the cathedral was devastated in a big fire.

One will have hard time, however, finding the signs of former state of the cathedral. The beautiful stained glass, the bells, the detailed statues - are now are here again. There are some bullet (shrapnel?) made small holes on the outside walls, but that's about it.

During the war, around 5 000 people were killed in Reims.


The original monument, erected in 1924, for the African soldiers was destroyed when Germans occupied France in 1940. It was a copy of the monument, erected in Bamako, Mali.

The current monument to the African soldiers who died for France

The 1st Corps of the Colonial Army hold the Fort de la Pompelle keeping the Germans away from Reims. The strength of colonial corps were also acknowledged at Chemin des Dames.

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The cathedral

The site where the Cathedral now stands, is known to house a church already in 408. The first king of Franks was baptised here. The Cathedral was built between 1211 and 1427, and for long was held a germ of French Gothic architecture and a treasure of all nations. However, during the Great war, numerous shells (about 300 direct hits) fell on it. At first, the abbots tried to salvage the Cathedral from the fire by rising white flag, however on September 20th, 1914, the shellfire caused the north tower to catch fire, which spread to all parts of the superstructure. The heat melted the lead roofs. The melted metal pored through the gargoyles and destroyed the Bishop's Palace. Only the west front and the pillars were left standing. And so, the Cathedral became known as "Cathedral matyr" and a symbol of propaganda and German barbarism. Together with Cloth Hall at Ypres and the University Library in Louvain it was used as an evident to show that Germans were targeting European cultural landmarks and civilization.

US propaganda poster. source

However, Germans used Reims cathedral as their propaganda source as well. It might seem strange at first, but Germans said that they had no choice as the French have used (or might have used) the cathedral as an observation post (" if the military commander of a besieged place used a church or other building whose immunity had been established, as a stronghold, a storehouse, or an observatory, <...> the besieger might bombard the site without being held responsible for damages caused in consequence of their proximity to other buildings which are liable to bombardment." source). Therefore, in a way, Germans were forced to shell the cathedral. However, they continued to do that even when the building (or what have left of it) was not used for military purposed in any way... Furthermore, the French denied to ever used the Cathedral as observation posts, but a Red Cross flag was set up and German wounded were taken cared for in the cathedral.
The French were also accused for the Cathedral destruction. It was said that they have not made the effort to extinguish the fire or at least save the art work.
The destruction caused an outrage in France to a degree, that when some French found few German soldiers taken shelter in the ruins of the Cathedral, they killed them.

However, the outrage of German actions also caused the establishment of Kunstschutz (bureau for the protection of monuments). It was run by art professionals and historians and it was suppose to show that Germans cared for the cultural heritage of the countries they invaded. Kunstschutz became a model for other similar initiatives in other countries (e.g. Monument Men by US).

Some holes can be seen on the walls of the cathedral. I was told that they are from bullets

The reconstruction work began immediately after the war, in 1919. The Germans aided the reconstruction. They funded the current stained glass and the glass at the end of the cathedral made in contemporary style by Imi Knobel, is a symbol of Franco-German friendship.

Private Americans aided with the reconstruction (probably the biggest part). And although the Cathedral was reopened in 1938, the reconstruction works are still ongoing ("the devil is in the details"). 

Maintenance work ongoing

Right next to Reims there is Fort la Pompelle - one of the defensive structures constructed after the Franco-Prussian war. It is the fort that never fell to German hands. It is also the place of cannon 75 - a weapon, which become emblem of the French artillery during the war and might still be used today. It was a revolutionary weapon, which was able to fire 15 rounds per minute to a distance of more than 11 kilometres. It was highly used during the Battle of Marne and Verdun. In total, French had 4000 of these cannons.

Just 17 kilometres away from Reims there was a village called Nauroy. It is nowhere to find on a map today as during the war the home of 120 people was under the bombardment by French. It might sound strange, but just one month into the war, September 3rd 1914, German troops pushed French. The inhabitants left and so the village became a resting station and an observation point over the French front for the new hosts. Throughout all the war, the French will bombard the village trying to destroy the German fortifications and underground catacombs. After the Armistice day, only the rubble witnessed the presence of previous population. It is, of course, the zone of no-go for the public. Nauroy is one of seven villages in Marne that were never rebuilt.

Part 2: the Cathedral and people, who have my back and a place, which waits for travellers

Sleeping under a plum and a cherry tree among vast vineyard felt like a fairytale. Something from a fantasy world. However, the sound of those special tractors driving and spraying something on the grapes brought both a sense of reality and fear. Fear that I would be shout at without even giving the possibility to explain why I made the decision to invade a private property...

I tried to quietly pack my things hoping that the owners will not see me. My hopes were crushed when I started to walk the road. The owners spotted me and waved greeting me. At that moment, I wanted nothing more than to go straight through the ground. I was so ashamed not to ask the permission, but it was late and I had no idea who is the owner... He asked how did I sleep and I somehow managed to squeeze a shameful smile saying: "Good. Thank you for allowing me to sleep in your property" (of course, it was not that smooth in my no-good French, but at least that was what I tried to say). The man just waved to me again and wished good road.
It brought me yet another amazement at how good and nice people are. Imagine waking up and seeing someone's tent in your vineyard, in the small garden, which had small fence... The goodness I received throughout is still very humbling.

I had two choices to go to Reims - up towards Verzenay and then down near the farm I former considered sleeping, or across Mailly-Champagne and try to hitchhike from there. Going up the "mountain" was not something I was looking forward for, so I chose the road across Mailly. However, crossing the village took longer than I thought it would be, but then, again, I learned that that's the usual case with reality and calculations here.

By the time I reached the edge of the village, the sun was up high in the sky again, falling upon with all of its might on the living. I walked and had my thumb up for every car I met. I trailed with eyes fancy cars passing me. I was not used to seeing such fancy cars in countryside. They all seemed so busy and into the things they were doing. It was beautiful. At one point I stopped walking, put my "big brother" and "small brother" on the ground, and start to imagine where were these people were driving. To the town for groceries. To a meeting with barrel makers or retailers. Driving to meet friends and enjoy the beautiful summer day outside with a glass of their home-made wine...

Then a woman stopped. She was driving to Reims. Perfect.

She was great. We had a nice time talking in French-English. And it so happened that her son was working with a Lithuanian - what are the odds! She was going for groceries to Reims. The zone with all the shops was at the beginning of the road the lady was driving, but she asked where I was going. My plan was Fort la Pompelle and then - the historical cathedral. But the great woman told me that the fort and the cathedral were very much not on the way... Furthermore, she told that the fort is not actually in Reims, but rather outside and near a national road. She asked me where once again and I decided to go to cathedral. She drove me all way to it. I liked talking to her, so leaving her was a hard thing to do.

The cathedral was truly magnificent and made me fall in love with French gothic architecture all over again. It is rightfully the place of kings and crowns.

The small cathedral inside the real thing

Despite all her beauty, it still felt like a place of betrayal. And all because of one man in 1429.

Jeanne d'Arc chapel

The cathedral was like goddess herself who descended from the sky to help people to remember to take care of one another. Yet the Christian art somehow throws me off a bit with the conflict between Christian teachings of giving up to the poor, sharing the wealth with them and church being all so fancy...

Nevertheless, the French Gothic is a pure beauty.

To feel small

I took my time at the cathedral. I put my backpack and started to walk around it until a man came to me saying, that I can't leave the backpack "there". So I took it and put next to column. I left my sticks there too and the only thing that I had was my camera. After a while a woman came to me and asked if the big backpack is mine and if so, I should take if because I can't leave it unattended. It was a surprise to me how did she now that it was mine... I did not want to carry my big brother over the cathedral, but, apparently, I didn't have a choice.
While walking around, the same man who first talked to me came: "I can give you the stamp."

I had no idea what he was talking about.

"The stamp to your book. That you were here."

"I don't have a book. I'm not doing the Campostela. I'm doing the Western front."

"Ah. Ok. Sorry."

But maybe I should have taken the stamp to my notebook... Just like a reminder or something... But then again, hitchhiking to Reims didn't earn me the stamp. Next time maybe...

I leave you with some heavenly art. No words needed.

Rose window

Main altar glass

Close up of the altar rose

Marc Chagall windows

The mean, which is used to translate Godly sounds into 20 - 20 000 Hz sound wave range

The humbling size

Side nave (aisle) entrance

Above side nave (aisle) entrance

Black and white?

The other side

The old and the new

To each their own spirit animal...

                      

                        

                      

The back of the cathedral

As seen from tourist information centre 

Archbishop palace right next to the cathedral

Entrance to the palace

The tourist office was right next to the cathedral. I went there to get a map of the town and ask if there are some more monuments or places related to the Great war here. I also took the WiFi chance at the office to call home. It was nice to hear a familiar voice and to speak in native language.

"Tee"? "Shirts"? Tea-shirts?

After tourist office, I continued my way to the monument for the coloured army.

Library next to the cathedral

Reims was the first big town after a while. It was very different and, to be honest, I did not feel fully comfortable there... It was not that something happened or anything, it was just my personal preferences playing tricks probably... But I did like the architecture a lot

                      

At this point, streets with no trees were still strange surprise for me

  

Wine restaurant-hotel-tasting house

Some places still had the evidence of long history

Porte Bazee

Other side of Porte Bazee

Had hard time to find the described place, so just assumed it was behind it

House of Champagne

This was a really fancy looking place. I was not sure if I, looking so dirty and definitely not fitting for such a fancy place, which had golden letter on the outer side of their fence, would not be kicked out for trespassing. But I should have known better...

I had my breakfast/lunch/dinner time at the monument. It wasn't tasty or anything of that kind. Just something to put in my stomach and fuel my body for the upcoming day adventures...

I spend some time at the monument. While it's not in the best place (one side is facing a busy street), it does have a nice view over a part of the town. I took my time to admire it and let it soak in.
Then I continued to the outskirts - I needed to reach a shop to get some food (although I still had the awful can food, but I was running low on "fast calories"). I planed my way in such a manner, that I would be passing the Basilica and some parks. In the first park I discovered, that Antic history is also respected here

Not sure who is here, but I think he's one of the Roman gods or heroes (I might be very wrong here)

Some have steel, some have stone table tennis tables

Dog walking area? Maybe for those "pocket" ("bag") dogs, but I wonder how long it would take for an Australian shepherd or a Siberian husky to get the proper amount of exercise here...

Although Reims cathedral is probably one of the most famous religious buildings in the world, the town has another very impressive and less tourist visited Christian building - the Saint Remi Basilica.

Main entrance

The Saint Remi Basilica - the name sounds more than fitting to be in the same town as the cathedral, where Saint Remi baptised King Clovis (next to the Basilica there is a statue of Saint Remi baptising King Clovis). He remained Reims bishop for 74 years and died at the age of 96. Each October, 96 candles are light in the Basilica.
It started as small chapel, which attracted pilgrims. Due to that, in 750 - 760, archbishop Tilpin invited Benedictine monks to welcome and guide the pilgrims. This resulted in the increase of the chapel. Eventually, the old building was replaced by large Romanesque church (year 1000). The church later again underwent reconstruction in 1162 - 1198. Firstly, under the command of new abbot Pierre de Celle. The Romanesque porch was replaced with extended Gothich nave of two spans. Romanesque choir was also taken down and new Gothic choir with ambulatory and five chapels were added. Later the successor of Pierre de Celle elevated and strengthened the walls of nave.
Over the years, the current Basilica experienced even more changes to fit the architecture trends or the needs (or desires) of the residing abbots.

 No matter how many windows I have seen, the glass was mesmerizing me no less...

Her (yes, I know it should be "it", but it does feel like "her") size is intimidating, but in a good way

Part of the windows above the main altar

Main altar

Rose of the main altar

Just after entering the Basilica

Main altar on the right out of shot

This is one of my favourite pictures...

Organs. Built in ___ . You can listen to them here

The Basilica also suffered fair share of damage during the Great war. She shells ignited a fire, which destroyed the frame and the vaults of the building. The fire also destroyed both the great and the choir organs. Walls were pierced and the last winter weather of the war resulted in the collapsed South stand, exposing the nave to the open sky. Reconstruction of the building was handed to Henri Deneux and in October 12, 1958 the building was reopened again.

Next to the basilica, there is a Saint Remi muesum.

The museum - straight in front of the entry

The museum and the Basilica towers

I continued to walk towards one of the commercial areas.

On my way I saw the greenest river:

I started to think how did the river looked 100 years ago... 200 years... and wonder when was the last time the water was clean enough to use it...

One of the largest bardge I have seen. Based on the dot, that is a bicycle, standing at the entrance, I assume this is a living-ship. It was nice to see so many ships, that were used as houses. Made me to remember "the Highlander" tv series

While trying to take photos on the bridge, a man at the riverside spotted me and waved. "Why not!" We met in the middle of the stairs to the riverside. We went to sit on the bench and talked about music, jazz, cultures, town management, green space. But most of the time about music. He was a self-employed music writer-producer. He offered to walk with me to Lidl (I knew they have really cheap chocolate and yogurt there). We took the bus and I had no idea where were we going and I took bunch of space in the bus with all my load. Nevertheless, people were nice and even offered me a place to sit. However, there were older people there who, in my eyes, would benefited more for a seat.

We went to Lidl and afterwards he called his friend to pick us up. By that time he invited to stay at his place and I was really considering it, although understood very well that my trip will experience a set back once again...

His friend Bobby offered me a ride to Prouilly - a very small village about 20 kilometres from Reims. I was very happy as it was already around 19.00. However, he needed to go to some courses and after them, he would be back and take me. At least that's how I understood...

I was standing in the balcony with many curious eyes looking at me (most of the apartments where occupied by black people, so maybe that's why they looked at me so curiously).

At eight o'clock I was starting to get nervous and ancsious. Did I misunderstood Bobby? Maybe he offered to take me next day. Otis, who was the first one whom I met and at whose apartment we were in, didn't have phone credit to call or write Bobby. So I wrote him from my phone. If he's not coming, I need to go to the road and try to hitchhike (although the car intensity considerably drops after 18.00 - 19.00.

Bobby did came and we did drove to Prouilly. He asked me where should he drop me off and I said: "Here!" after I saw two openings in a slope. They seemed perfect - will protect me from rain, in case it rains, and the sun in the morning. The only shortage - it was right on the side of the main road... But, well, hope for the best.

We took my stuff and said our goodbyes. I was very moved when Bobby said: "If anything happens or you'll need help, call me or the police. Me first, then the police". I felt so blessed for all the people I have encountered.

With the warmth in my heart, I set up my tent, had some food, looked at the map - Croanne tomorrow. Finally. Chemin des Dames. The thought alone made me anxious. But it was good that I was tired, so falling asleep wasn't a problem even with all the emotions...